Purchase of equipment |
The capital equipment:
If your equipment is badly adjusted of does not work properly, you can never feel cozy under water. We will spend some time on looking at how the equipment should operate.
Mask
One important aspect of the equipment is the mask. It should be a perfect fit otherwise the water will dined its way in and this would be irritating and will surely drive you crazy.
The right way to test the utility of you mask:
Throw head backwards and put mask on your face.
Ask someone to look attentively if there are any spaces between the skin and mask.
Old method "apply a mask on your face and make an inspiration" absolutely nothing proves, because with this way it is possible to soak up the mug! And in general, every time, when you buy a new mask, try to receive the guarantee on the purchase.
Simply speaking, if in substantial conditions the mask begins a leak, you should have a possibility to change it on other model. Such approach only is fair, taking into account both cost of a mask in our time, and importance of precise adjustment. You see, all over, even the theoretical adjustment does not guarantee or give you a warrantee that the mask will not leak under water.
Another problem would be a moustache.
They foil pressurization, and the water is coming through the mask. Try to trim your moustache, and if it doesn't help, make a decision…
Many women with long hair (and the guys, by the way) are faced with a problem such as tangling of hair in the belt of the mask. Try to plat the hair or buy neoprene belts.
After you have picked out and bought your mask, use the following tips to make you diving more easy: firstly, carefully strip glasses with a soft-scrub or toothpaste. It will remove silicone scurf; otherwise it is inevitable for the mask to sweat under water. Even special anti-sweat creams will not work, if you don't strip your mask.
Secondly, a special case, or strong plastic box, should be purchased for your mask. Without this important peace of equipment, the mask could be damaged.
Snorkel
Probably, dive-centers and stores will become angry about this following statement, but it is worth mentioning anyway: a snorkel is NOT a necessity if you are only going for a swim. When diving into underwater caves and wrecked ships, it is better to go without a snorkel, as it will only be of bother.
Recently, with occurrence of compressed air valves, there was a tendency to make snorkels a major composite, so called "dry tubes, which were huge difficult to use, and so heavy that it creates such a big resistance under water, and practically pulls down the mask from your face. I saw this happening, more than once! Many times you will hear, that these snorkels are easier for scavenging, but you see, having mastered the right technique, anybody can scavenge, without effort!
In many places you will hear, that these snorkels are easier for scavenging, but you see having mastered the right technique, anybody scavenges even unpretentious old snorkel without effort!
The unwieldy snorkels, such as some dry, and are so heavy and create such big resistance underwater, that practically pull down a mask from your face. I saw it more than once, so mean.
Small pots and foot fins
The small pots and foot fins act in one crew, and consequently should be combined with each other – small pots should go in foot fins densely, but not intimately. If the foot fins are too tight, you will experience cramps in your legs, but on the contrarily, if the fit is too loose, your legs will be scared. This could be very irritable, and the whole idea is to concentrate on the magnificence of under water life, than to get mad or irritable! You NEED to find the exact combination of pots and fins. Without going into detail, I will mention that there are many varieties of foot fins, to mention one: the "rigged" type, for more potent strokes and strong legs.
Another potential problem with foot fins is the length. Many experienced swimmers, with tubes prefer fins with length, by small movements of legs, a considerable movement is converted. For the "beginner diver" any sort of foot fin will be inconvenient, and with plunging from a boat it is just excruciation!
The buoyancy compensator
The second most important element of equipment is the buoyancy compensator or BC. There are 10 compensators with 3 fundamental styles available. One of the oldest compensators is called, "Mae West" or: "Yoke” In addition to this compensator-jackets are dominating the market today. As to you, probably you will have to be content with the rolling expansion compensator, which is predominant among the technical and cave divers and also fans of wreck diving.
Just to point out the necessity of the following:
If the compensator is a jacket, it should be a Farley tight fit. Try it on and tighten all belts up to a convenient position. If still it doesn't fit, ask somebody to take you by the shoulders of the waistcoat and to lift you.
The problems of adjustment of compensators are usually linked to overall dimensions of their owners. To the women, especially miniature, it is difficult to find the expansion bend on the size. One more problem for the women are straps of compensator posed across a breast, which are completely uncomfortable. The sectional problem is solved through acquisition of a special female jacket, or expansion bend with maximal opportunities of individual adjustment.
Regulators
The accquisition of a regulator or the better word: "system of air provider"
This is to illustrate the importance of decision making on the following aspects:
First steps
Second steps
unsurance, second stage("octopus")
For the first and second stages it is possible to pay anything from 120 to 1000 superfluous bucks. Is only difference in regulators is that one regulator cost about ten times more than another?
Devirsified characteristics: resistance to respiration on a surface and depth, quality of a construction, system of warranty service and expedient of diffusion.
One of criteria of quality of regulator is easiness of respiration. With the best regulator it is so easy to breath, that any resistance in general is difficult for noting.
The resistance is metered in inches or centimeters of water pile, and the best regulators give 4-8 WCI (1.01 - 2.02 cm in pile.) on an inspiration and 4 WCI (1.01 cm in pile) on an exhalation. The second important index repeatability of its work on depth. In some cheaper regulators it is rather difficult to breath on depths, close to a limit of depth of recreational sinkages.
Another advantage of a good regulator is the volume of air, in standard cubic ft in one minute. At the best models this index makes 36-40 SCFM.
The most basic rule, that is useful to follow, and that you should allow yourself to follow, is to possess an acquisition of the best regulator. There is however the possibility that the casting will get loose from your immersion and it become less appreciable.
The more expensive regulator would apply to divers, doing bottomless diving. You are not inclined to buy only the best if you intend to dive not deeper than 30 meters.
Warranty and service is a very important reason. Some firms offer a life restricted warranty, which means, that as soon as you fulfill the necessary demands, as a rule, annual service in the authorized technical center, will carry the flow rates on any parts, and you will only be charged for the service, besides, it should be carefully tested at your dive center by their trained personnel.
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